The Power of Nature

The general knowledge about surfing holds that the taller a wave, the harder it is to catch and ride, and the more nerve it takes for someone to risk that initial drop. Really that’s not entirely true. The power of the wave holds more signifcance, as anyone who been sucked off their board and up into the breaking curl will tell you. In 2000, Laird Hamilton dropped into a wave at Teahupo’o that’s renowned as one of, if not the gnarliest (oh yeah, gnarly) waves of all time. The shear force of this wall of water crashing into the reef is, to me, an awe inspiring example of nature’s power:

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